How to Ride the Star Ferry in Hong Kong for the Absolute Best Views

There are a handful of travel experiences that are so iconic, so deeply woven into the fabric of a place, that they feel almost like a rite of passage. In Hong Kong, for me, that experience has always been the Star Ferry. It’s not the fastest way to cross Victoria Harbour—the city’s hyper-efficient MTR system holds that title—but it is, without a doubt, the most soulful. There’s a certain romance to it that technology just can’t replicate.

Honestly, no matter how many times I visit, I find myself drawn back to the gentle chug of its engine and the familiar wooden benches. It’s a moment of pause in a city that never stops moving. You feel the history in the worn brass fittings and see the future in the gleaming skyscrapers that line the shore. It’s this beautiful, chaotic, wonderful contrast that makes the ride so special. It’s no wonder National Geographic listed it as one of the '50 places of a lifetime.' It’s not just a commute; it’s a ten-minute love letter to Hong Kong.

A Piece of Living History

Before you even step on board, it helps to know that you’re about to become part of a legacy that stretches back to 1888. That’s when a Parsee cook decided to start a ferry service across the harbour. For decades, before the cross-harbour tunnels were built, these charming green-and-white boats were the primary way people, goods, and stories traveled between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula. They were, and in many ways still are, the city’s lifeline.

Riding the ferry today feels like a nod to that history. You see office workers on their daily commute, families out for a weekend stroll, and wide-eyed travelers like us, all sharing the same simple, profound experience. The air smells of salt and diesel, the wooden seats have been polished smooth by a century of passengers, and the view remains one of the most spectacular urban landscapes in the world. It’s a tangible connection to the past in a city that is constantly, dazzlingly, looking forward.

Your Guide to the Perfect Ride

Okay, so you’re ready to ride. But how do you make sure you get those jaw-dropping, postcard-perfect views? It’s not just about hopping on any boat. With a little planning, you can elevate a simple ferry ride into an unforgettable memory. I’ve made this trip more times than I can count, and I’ve picked up a few tricks along the way.

The Classic Route: Tsim Sha Tsui to Central

First things first, you’ll want to take the classic route between Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) Pier in Kowloon and Central Pier on Hong Kong Island. This is the journey that showcases the most iconic stretch of the skyline. As you pull away from Kowloon, the full panorama of Hong Kong Island’s architectural marvels unfolds before you. Then, on the return journey, you get a stunning view of the Kowloon waterfront, with its own impressive set of skyscrapers. The ride is short, only about 10 minutes, but it’s packed with visual drama.

Timing is Everything: Sunset and the Symphony of Lights

You can ride the Star Ferry any time of day and have a great experience, but if you want a truly magical one, aim for sunset. Watching the sky shift from blue to fiery orange and soft pink behind that iconic skyline is just breathtaking. The city’s lights begin to flicker on, and the whole harbour seems to hold its breath for a moment. It’s pure magic, and your camera will thank you.

For an even more spectacular show, time your ride to coincide with the "A Symphony of Lights." This is a nightly multimedia show that starts at 8:00 PM, where more than 40 buildings on both sides of the harbour erupt in a choreographed spectacle of light and sound. Being on the water for this is, without question, the best seat in the house. The lights reflecting off the waves, the music in the air—it’s an immersive experience that feels like you’re floating through a dream.

Upper vs. Lower Deck: A Small Price for a Better View

When you get to the pier, you’ll have a choice: upper deck or lower deck. The lower deck is slightly cheaper, but I’m telling you, always choose the upper deck. The view is significantly better, with large, open windows that are perfect for photography. It’s less crowded, and you get a much better sense of the sea breeze and the open air. The small difference in fare (we’re talking cents, not dollars) is the best money you’ll spend all day.

Snagging the Best Seat

Once you’re on the upper deck, where should you sit? This is key. The seats are simple benches, and you can slide the backrest to face either direction. For the best views of the Hong Kong Island skyline when traveling from TST to Central, you’ll want to be on the left side of the ferry. When you’re traveling from Central to TST, the best views are from the right side. I like to head for the very front or back of the boat to get a spot right by the railing for completely unobstructed photos.

The Practical Details

Don’t worry, riding the ferry is incredibly easy. The most convenient way to pay is with an Octopus Card, the rechargeable smart card used for all public transport in Hong Kong. You just tap it at the turnstile and walk through. If you don’t have one, you can buy a small plastic token from the vending machines at the pier using coins or small bills. It’s incredibly affordable, making it one of the best-value attractions in the world.

The piers are easy to find. The TST pier is located right next to the iconic Clock Tower and the Avenue of Stars. The Central pier is a short walk from the IFC Mall and the main MTR station, connected by a series of elevated walkways. Ferries run frequently, every 6 to 12 minutes, from early morning until late at night, so you never have to wait long.

In the end, the Star Ferry is so much more than just a way to get across the water. It’s a moment to slow down, to breathe, and to soak in the magnificent, chaotic beauty of Hong Kong. It’s a thread that connects the city’s past to its present, and every ride feels like a small, personal discovery. It’s a simple, honest, and beautiful experience, and one that I hope you get to enjoy.